Off The Grid

Speak of the devil....

"An officer asked Le whether the guillotine was working and could cut him. “Yeah, it’s the real deal, man,” Le responded, according to a court affidavit. His lawyer, Anthony Smith, did not immediately respond to a request for comment. Le told Capitol police he had no specific reason for being near the federal grounds and that he did not have issues with any members of Congress, according to the affidavit. It remains unclear why he allegedly had the guillotine."

In other news, completely unrelated, police are being issued electric shock gloves.

This is how it’s been done.

Yes please!

If anyone is wondering how to build a device to humanely dispatch goats, the blade should fall 5ft and weigh 11 lbs.

Back 10 years ago living with solar meant special fridges and doing laundry only on sunny days.

Today it’s not uncommon to have solar systems that produce 100kwh a day. One group member here is installing a system that will make 250kwh a day…. He has a $1011 monthly bill last month for power and will soon have zero or damn near zero.

Generally speaking $15k-$25k will take most homes completely off grid.

My electric company sent me an email with tips to save money like closing window blinds. You know what would save money? If they didn’t charge 2x as much for power while I’m cooking dinner.

saved by @InstantMediaBot

I invented a NEW KNOT.. and its a GAMECHANGER
[​7:24] · mp4 360p [23 MB]

The first publication of The "Bear's Grip" Hitch.. A new type of "Kamikaze" Remote Release Hitch.

I have decided to call it the "Bear's Grip" Hitch. And by all technical standards, it's not a single "knot," nor is it a single "Hitch" on its own...I don't think.

I would classify it as a rigging system, similar to a "Truckers' Hitch," for instance.

Anyway, I hope you enjoy it! Here are some links to my other videos AND to my Knot Tying Kit if you want to support the channel:

Here are the VIDEO SOURCES for other Kamikaze Knots at this time of publishing.
**Bellringer:**
This one by me:
https://youtu.be/syNOekZkO6M?si=stcFB13koAWTe805
The other is by @KnottingKnots…
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Excuse my spelling guys.... been in the sun all day on a ladder and my brain and eyes a bit fried....

Heres your hook that auto disengages. Simply have to determine your pivot point in balance so that it will tip forward when no load. Then the square tube slits are staggered in length so that the flat bar is stopped at the back, not passing through. This keeps the flat bar primed for forward disengagement. The sq tube only lòng enough to incorporate a hoop on top to fix the rope to. A bit of playing to find correct pivot point on hook.....

Got a solution to my bucket drop problem. Inspiration from Beaker. Thanks PFC.

Guy on east coast go look at moon.

Yes — the closest traditional nautical (naval/sailing) knot is the Bellringer’s Knot (Ashley Book of Knots #1147).It is a remote-release / auto-release hitch that holds securely while the line is under tension and spills free once that tension is removed (or with a light additional tug). Sailors and riggers have long used variations of it for lowering gear or tools from height and then retrieving the entire line without climbing back down or sending a second messenger line.

Bellringer’s Knot (also called Bell Ringer’s Knot or Half Sheepshank; Ashley Book of Knots #1147 and related entries)This is traditionally used to temporarily shorten a hanging rope (e.g., a church bell rope) so it stays off the floor. In modern use it is often adapted as a remote-release hitch that holds under tension and spills free when the line goes slack (or with a light tug). It is essentially the first half of a sheepshank.Important safety notes It is not a high-strength load-bearing knot. Use only for light to moderate temporary loads.
Practice the tying and release thoroughly with your actual rope and a safe test load.
Never use it for people, heavy critical loads, or anything where accidental release could cause injury or damage.
It can collapse if tightened unevenly.

Steps for the classic shortening version (mid-line)Form an overhand loop (a simple clockwise or counterclockwise twist that creates a small loop) in the standing part of the rope at the point where you want the shortening to begin.
Below that loop, form a bight (a U-shaped fold) in the rope.
Pass the bight up through the overhand loop.
Pull carefully and evenly on the appropriate parts to tighten and set the knot so the bight is nipped and held. The excess rope is now shortened and held up.

To release: Pull on the free/standing end or simply remove tension—the knot spills easily.Steps for the remote-release / auto-release hitch version (suited to lowering a load)This is the adaptation commonly shown for lowering an object (like your bucket) so the rope frees itself once the load is supported and the line goes slack:Pass the end of the rope through or around the object you want to lower (bucket handle, fixed loop, ring, etc.).
With the standing part (the long working line that will take the load), form an overhand loop (imagine the motion of turning a key to start a car).
In the working end (the short free end that went through the object), form a bight—a simple U-shaped fold.
Push that bight through the overhand loop you made in step 2 (typically a few inches through).
Hold the parts carefully and pull the standing line slowly and evenly to tighten. The knot should “bite” down on itself and hold under tension. Do not yank it tight quickly or it may collapse immediately.

Release: Once the load is fully supported (line goes slack) or you give a light tug/shake on the standing line, the bight slips free and the entire knot spills, releasing the rope so you can pull it back up.Tips for successTighten smoothly and gradually so the half-hitch part seats snugly against the standing part.
Keep the released bight long enough to be accessible if you need a deliberate tug.
A double version (two loops instead of one, with the bight passed through both) is more secure for heavier ropes.
Works best with flexible, somewhat grippy rope; very stiff or extremely slippery line can be less reliable.

Practice a few times on the ground first until the set and release feel consistent. This gives you a true single-line solution that matches the function you described.

I need to tickle ya'lls collective brain. I know what a panic snap is.... I'm kinda looking for something that can hook on a loop of rope or line and hold it but when the line goes slack it needs to release.

Imagine lowering a bucket to the ground from the roof. A hook that holds the bucket until it touches the ground. when the line goes slack, the hook releases.

The rule is... single line. A panic snap would require a 2nd small line to pull the release.... that's not gunna work....

What ideas do we have?

Shepherds are very vicious. Terrible animals. Never to be trusted.

Regarding the strength of pole barns. There were many correct comments about bracing the pole shed I just built. I can't argue with the suggestions that we need to brace that building... and we will cable stay it.
However, this is the barn that we tore down at that site a year ago. It also used 6x6 (150mm) wooden posts. 80% of them were rotted off below grade and we decided to take the building down rather than repair. I went around with a chainsaw and cut most of the way thru every one of these 6x6's... I cut all diagonal bracing.... and we still had a hell of a time pushing it over.

So the elasticity of wood comes into play here. I'm starting to think that my new pole shed will wobble in the wind but it won't fall down.

Maybe Charlie303 or Sarmale can weigh in on the elasticity of wooden posts?