Big Chocolate Moves to Lab-Grown and Gene-Edited Cocoa

America’s chocolate aisle is facing two major shifts: lab-grown cocoa and genetically modified cacao using gene-editing. California Cultured is growing cocoa cells in tanks, and it’s not alone—Lindt, Mondelez (Cadbury, Oreos, Toblerone), and Barry Callebaut are investing in lab-grown cocoa and cocoa butter. Barry Callebaut, a key supplier to Hershey and Nestlé, plays a major role in the industry’s supply chain. Meanwhile, Mars, maker of M&M’s, Snickers, Twix, Milky Way and more, has partnered with a UC Berkeley lab tied to CRISPR technology to edit cacao genes for disease and drought resistance. With global demand rising 3% annually, 70% of cocoa coming from drought-stricken West Africa, and 30–40% of crops lost to pests and disease, companies are turning to lab cultivation and genetic modification—raising concerns about long-term safety and consumer transparency as these products move closer to store shelves.
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